Let’s face it – the Post Soviet Style trend is nothing new – we have seen designers taking inspirations from the east since a couple of seasons already. But it seems it’s hitting a peak now. The fashion world needed a revolution and got it with the infamous leaders Gosha and Demna.
Why the revolution happened and what’s important for fashion right now:
Reconsider classic beauty:
Since the big labels and fashion houses always tried to create more beautiful, more refined looks to get the “million bucks look” it was just a matter of time, that the bubble will burst and the fashion world needed to find beauty in the ugly. That’s probably why Demna Gvasalia from Vetements said in an interview for the NY Times: “I think that beauty is in everything, if you look for it. I mean it’s too easy to say something is classically beautiful. It’s clear for everyone. You don’t need to think.”
The relaxed way:
For me fashion is a constant evolution and an art form. As such art was always a mirror for society. Since society has found it’s love for trash and cheap and the easy and comfy way, it was just a small step to create a high fashion piece out of your cosy chill at home hoodie and take it to the next level.
It was just so good to see real fashion for real people on the catwalk. One of the most important steps in Demna Gvasalia’s creative process is to ask ” Would my friend wear this?”. He also asks the models during the fitting if they would wear the styles in their everyday life.
Styling is everything:
Another factor which is one of the most important factors in fashion right now is streetstyle. What you will see on the streets and before fashion shows is now more interesting than the shows themselves. And there you barely see unwearable high fashion. You see comfy, but well styled looks which brings me to another important fact: Styling is more important than the pieces themselves. If you are capable of good styling you can pull off everything and make it look fancy.
So I think it was pretty important for someone like Demna to meet Lotta Volcova, who noticed something when she was looking at one of Demna’s first lookbooks. She said: “Great clothes, but bad styling.”! Now she’s the stylist of both Demna and Gosha – that says it all. “I am taking the side of different cultures and am mixing subcultural codes rather than just being glossy and glam.” said Lotta about her take on styling and fashion to the Business of fashion magazine.
The visions the eastern designers created / revisited:
Demna & Gosha are bringing back well known brands from the past like for example Hilfiger, Fila and Champion, by faking their logos and styles, but also by collaborating.
Cultural influences like the skater scene is influencing them massively – so Vetements also used the famous Trasher magazine logo and Gosha hangs out with skate kids to take photos, get inspired and make collabs with them.
Eastern bloc flair:
Who would have thought my super short gym shorts and color blocking nylon tracksuits, that I used to wear in school and were handed down to me from my older cousin, would become high fashion.
ABOUT THE MASTERMINDS:
Demna is a 35-year-old Georgian from the former Soviet Union, who started his Paris fashion collective Vetements in 2014 after working at Maison Margiela and Louis Vuitton, where he became frustrated with the increasing demands of the fashion industry. Six months ago, based on the sheer strength of his fledgling streetwear-based label, he was named the artistic director of Balenciaga.
“He is really interested in making a jacket that represents an attitude. For example, a jacket that looks as if you just got off your motorcycle. Demna constructed the sleeves in a way so that they stay as bulky as your jacket is shaped while you are riding a chopper. This is a completely new take on constructing clothes. It’s very sculptural.” said Lotta Volcova to the Business of fashion magazine.
More looks on: VETEMENTS
Gosha was born in 1984 in Moscow and works as a photographer and designer. Inspired by the fall of the Iron Curtain and Moscovian youth he started his own streetwear label in 2008 called Aglec.
After he couldn’t find good manufacturing facility in Moscow he decided to become a photographer and created photo books. Adrian Joffe, CEO from the well known brand Comme des Garçons, brought him back by taking care of the business side of his company.
He is creating a Post Soviet Style mixed with contemporary streetwear.
More about his style on: GOSHA RUBCHINSKIY
My Post Soviet Style:
Photographer: Lady Venom / Marion Vicenta Payr
Location: Palmenhaus, 1010 Vienna