With Raf Simons’ designs it’s like with good music. Every time you look at them they get even better, like with a good song – it doesn’t wear out. This is also true for the new collection, that was presented today in New York for the first time.
There’s a special glow to his style and his personality, that only a few people of his generation in the 90s had – just like David Bowie and Kate Moss. Whatever they did (and still do) has a certain coolness, but in a very artistic way. It’s not just hip and cool today, it works on a deeper level. It’s hard to put the finger on it and I can’t explain what makes this certain magic. So let’s just look at the new collection!
Speaking about the 90s – the slight goth appeal that is happening in fashion right now, was also incorporated in Raf Simon’s collection for the first time. But he transformed this goth aesthetic in a more sensual and feminine way. A super shiny black coat wasn’t made of leather, but of Satin – and instead of simple chains around the neck he used pearl adorned chains. And then he combined these looks with his already known slouchy distressed knit pullovers – in cropped versions.
I love NY
His recent personal and business move to New York was also highly visible in the show. There wasn’t only knitwear with the famous “I love New York” slogan, but also barrier tape with NYC motifs styled all over the looks. Just like New York City is a labyrinth of construction sites secured with barrier tape, Raf Simons showed his new found love for the city in his collection in a very literal way.
My personal take
You might have noticed that I’m a huge Raf Simons fan – not just since this collection. He is constantly delivering, developing aesthetics and trends ahead of everyone else. That’s what sets him apart from Helmut Lang, one of my personal heroes in the 90’s , who unfortunately gave up fashion design. Raf Simons is still holding on to fashion and working for it.
With Raf Simons you can truly sense, that there is still a lot of love in his work. It’s the “only thing that matters”, he recently noted in a video interview for the NYTimes. And now he added love for New York to his love of fashion design. This makes me as a big NYC fan happier than I ever expected, when I anticipated the show. One of those “I love you” New York homage designs has to land in my closet soon!