Is 2018 the end of “disruptive”? The unofficial non-word in fashion has not only literally come to an end. Brands like Vetements are loosing more and more of their power in 2018 and we are in search for something more sensual.
Instead of disruptive and hyperrealistic clothes, maybe less is becoming more. Our environment seems harsh enough – we can’t trust no-one. Politics, economy, and social media, everything is corrupted. So we develop a wish for a more sensual, vulnerable and honest version of ourselves – also when it comes to clothing and styling.
And there is probably nothing more romanticised and soft-toned than the past. For a long time I really resisted the retro wave, that hit everyone outbursting in a huge hipster movement. A misty eyed version of finding the roots of good products. Searching for trust in an untrustworthy world. From organic food to a hand sewn shoe from your nearby shoe maker. All of this marks an escape from our present, disruptive time.
Maybe Raf Simons led the way – already in 2017 – with his love-themed collection. I was there for the presentation last winter in New York and immediately fell for his vision. He also expressed this in an interview for Times Magazine: “Love – the only thing that matters!”.
J.W.Anderson also was more on the soft side when it comes to his design. I feel what he is doing now is really what’s bringing fashion fast forward, yet into the past. Slouchy jeans, slightly oversized pullovers with a hand knit look. And lots of hearts printed everywhere. The J.W.Anderson converse collaboration brings a nostalgic endorphin rush (I already bought a pair and will show them soon here!).
JIL SANDER is back!
Another endorphin conglomerate right now is Jil Sander. For me Jil Sander is the best brand at the moment and for this fall-winter! My shoes shown here are from the first collection from husband and wife Lucie and Luke Meier (powered by Zalando)and give a first glimpse into the direction of Jil Sander.
To cut a long story short: Lucie worked for Dior, Louis Vuitton and Balenciaga and her husband Luke for the nowadays boring streetwear brand Supreme and the very clean and sophisticated OAMC. Finally the Meier couple arrived at Jil Sander and they know what they are doing and they do it right! Jil Sander was never greater (even when master Raf Simons took over in 2005)!
Is SOFTCORE the evolution from norm and dad core?
After having hyperrealism smashed in our faces by Demna Gvasalia and all the rip off designers for the past years over and over, it just feels so good to be back in a more sensual space.
So all this retro nostalgia movement hit me hard. That’s why I also chose to cut my hair to get back to my misty eyed 90’s version of myself. Well, to be honest – I had a different haircut (and color) pretty much every week in the 90’s. But sometimes when the scalp was too irritated from dying my hair white blond, I had to go with my natural hair color for some weeks. But: I always had short hair back then – mostly and also because of the fast changing styles.
For the last 14 years I had this long hair thing going on and it was really time for change. I’m still a fan of long hair, but I think it really wasn’t flattering myself. So I just took a scissor and cut it myself. In an instant I went from the very sleek man bun (which I honestly can’t see anymore) to the super curly out-of-bed hair version. I don’t regret it for now – looking forward into the future!
Music: Twin Musicom – Big Bird’s Date Night
Location: 1050 – Vienna, Austria
Photography: Lady Venom / Marion Vicenta Payr
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